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Food

AGORA,

at the Westin Hotel, West Exchange St., Providence (598-8011).

At the Agora restaurant, presentation is everything, as it should be in a hotel as stylishly upscale as the Westin. It starts with the plush decor of heavy brocade drapes and overstuffed loveseats at tables for two and continues with the waiters' dramatic flourishes as they set dishes in front of you. Chefs Casey Riley and Susan R. Witt use herbs and spices to great effect. Truffle risotto is infused with lavender; salmon is glazed with fennel and red chilis; the pineapple souffle is set off with dollops of tarragon sauce and a sprig of the herb itself. The color is often as impressive as the seasoning. One example is the roasted Vidalia onion and spring asparagus soups appetizer ($8). Served in one wide bowl, the creamy white and fresh green soups form two halves of a circle, separated by a coral-colored cheese souffle. All in all, visitors are pampered by waiters, coddled by chefs, and charmed by a view of the sun's last glow on the New England houses that climb up University Heights.

Full review.








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